During your Home Energy Assessment, the Energy Specialist may have recommended weatherization for your home. Below is a description of the various weatherization upgrades offered through the Mass Save program. Please refer to your weatherization contract to see which of these upgrades are recommended for your home.
| Item | Description |
|---|---|
| Air sealing | Most homes have gaps and openings around the plumbing and electrical access points, chimney chases and exhaust fans, allowing air to escape and increasing heating and cooling costs. In many homes, the amount of air leakage is comparable to leaving a window open year-round. Excessive and uncontrolled air movement can lead to moisture buildup, which may cause condensation, mildew and long-term damage to walls and ceilings. Air sealing is the process of blocking or closing these gaps to improve the home's thermal barrier, enhancing energy efficiency and durability. Air sealing is one of the most cost-effective weatherization measures and is provided at no cost to you. |
| Asbestos | Asbestos fibers are a known carcinogen, and when disturbed, they can be inhaled, leading to series health risks. If your home has steam heat or other visible signs of possible asbestos insulation, we will take precautions as if it were present. It is essential to have the asbestos mitigated by a certified abatement contractor. A blower door test will not be conducted to limit disturbing the asbestos. |
| Attic damming | Insulation dams are installed in certain areas of your attic to contain blown-in insulation, preventing it from shifting and ensuring proper coverage. |
| Attic floor cellulose | Cellulose insulation is a fiber insulation made from recycled paper and is commonly used in walls, attics and other spaces to help prevent heat transfer. |
| Attic floor dense packing | Dense packing involves adding Class I Cellulose insulation beneath a floored attic by drilling holes in the floor and blowing in insulation to reach the specified R-Value. Once the insulation is in place, the drilled holes are sealed with wood plugs to reduce heat loss. |
| Attic floor fiberglass | Fiberglass batt insulation is made of glass fibers and a binder, and is commonly used to insulate walls, attics and floors. To achieve a greater depth than the floor cavity, fiberglass batts are laid perpendicular to the cavity, enhancing thermal protection. |
| Balloon framing blocking | Balloon framing is a construction method where the vertical studs of a building extend from the foundation to the roof, creating a continuous wall with studs running from the basement to the attic. Installing blocking material at any openings in this structure helps to reduce excessive air leakage, minimizing heat loss or gain throughout the home. |
| Basement ceiling fiberglass | Fiberglass batt insulation is a pre-cut insulation material made from glass fibers and a binder. It's commonly used to insulate walls, attics, ceilings and floors. Faced fiberglass insulation is installed into the ceiling cavity with the facing directed towards the heated living space. The insulation is then fastened in place using spring wires so the insulation contacts the floor above. |
| Basement sills - rigid board insulation | To effectively insulate basement sills with rigid foam board, a 2" thermal barrier polyiso rigid board is cut to fit into the bays along the perimeter of the basement ceiling. The insulation is secured in place using foam board joint sealant or foil tape. Sill insulation helps complete the thermal envelope of the exterior wall, preventing drafts and cool air from entering under the floor system, improving energy efficiency and comfort. |
| Carbon monoxide | Carbon monoxide (CO) is an odorless, colorless, poisonous gas produced by the incomplete combustion of fuels such as gas, oil or wood. It can be deadly if inhaled in high concentrations. Your home should have at least one (1) CO alarm in place to alert you should a problem ever occur. Ideally your home should have a separate CO detector for each floor to ensure coverage and safety. |
| Crawlspace fiberglass | Fiberglass batt insulation is a pre-cut insulation material made from glass fibers and a binder. It's commonly used to insulate walls, attics, ceilings and floors. In crawlspaces, faced fiberglass insulation is installed into the ceiling cavity with the facing directed towards the heated living space. This insulation is fastened in place using spring wires so the insulation contacts the floor above. |
| Door - insulate rigid board |
Insulating a door with rigid board helps prevent significant heat loss from your living space to the outside. By minimizing drafts and maintaining a consistent indoor temperature, this insulation effectively treats the door as part of your home's exterior, improving energy efficiency and reducing heating and cooling costs. |
| Door sweep | A door sweep seals the gap between the bottom of a door and the threshold, blocking drafts, pests, dust and moisture from entering your home. By reducing air leaks, it helps maintain a consistent indoor temperature, improves energy efficiency, and enhances overall comfort. |
| Duct insulation |
Heating and/or air conditioning ducts located in unconditioned areas of your home can cause energy loss. To improve efficiency, the uninsulated ductwork will be wrapped with R-8 vinyl or foil-backed fiberglass insulation, helping to reduce heat loss or gain and maintain consistent temperatures throughout your home. |
| Duct sealing | Duct sealing closes gaps and leaks in a home's ductwork to improve airflow to heated and cooled rooms while reducing energy loss. By preventing conditioned air from escaping into unheated areas like attics, garages or crawlspaces, duct sealing enhances efficiency and comfort. Sealants such as mastics and caulks can be used to create an effective and long-lasting seal. |
| Exterior perimeter cellulose dense packing | Dense packing involves adding Class I Cellulose insulation into an enclosed floor cavity along the exterior wall. This is done by drilling holes in the floor and blowing in insulation to achieve the specified R-Value. This method is often combined with treating knee wall slopes, as it seals and insulates the section of the slope concealed under the knee wall floor. |
| Exterior wall insulation |
Exterior wall insulation involves adding Class I Cellulose insulation densely packed into an enclosed wall cavity along the exterior wall by drilling holes under the siding. The siding will be removed with care, though some chipping, cracking or splitting may occur. Once the insulation is installed, the hole will be sealed with a foam plug and the siding will be reinstalled. The customer will be responsible for any painting or touch-up needed. This method applies to all types of siding. |
| FSK covering | FSK insulation stands for "Foil-Scrim-Kraft" insulation, which is a type of insulation facing material made of a layer of aluminum foil bonded to a fiberglass scrim and backed with a layer of kraft paper. This combination creates a flame-retardant vapor barrier commonly used in ductwork, walls and ceilings. |
| Gable vent | A gable vent is a ventilation opening installed at the peak of a gabled roof, typically on the gable end of a house. It allows air to flow in and out of the attic, helping to regulate temperature and prevent moisture buildup by facilitating cross-ventilation. |
| Garage ceiling cellulose | Insulating the ceiling of your garage with densely packed Class I Cellulose helps improve the comfort of heated rooms above the garage. This is done by drilling holes in the ceiling from below and blowing in the insulation. Once the insulation is in place, the holes are sealed and spackled to a semi-smooth finish. |
| Hatch - insulate rigid board | Insulating an attic hatch with rigid board is essential for preventing heat loss from your living space to the attic. This insulation minimizes drafts and helps maintain a consistent indoor temperature, effectively treating the hatch as another exterior wall of your home, which contributes to lower energy bills and enhanced comfort. |
| Heat pump | Heat pumps provide reliable heating, cooling and dehumidification by transferring heat rather than generating it. During the hot, summer months, heat is moved from inside your home to outside. In the winter, the process reverses, extracting heat from outside air and converting it into warmth for your home. Learn more at MassSave.com/HeatPump. |
| Heat pump water heater | Heat pump water heaters work by extracting heat from the surrounding air and transferring it into the water tank. These high-efficiency units can produce a large amount of hot water and are up to three times more energy-efficient than traditional electric resistance water heaters. Learn more at MassSave.com/HPWH. |
| Homasote ceilings | Your ceilings are constructed of a lightweight, cardboard composite material known as Homasote. This type of ceiling cannot support the additional weight of blown-in insulation or air sealing. Until these ceilings are renovated, insulation cannot be installed. |
| Interior drill and blow | When a portion of your walls cannot be insulated from the exterior, insulation is added by drilling holes through the interior plaster or drywall. Insulation is then blown into the space to improve energy efficiency. Afterward, the holes are plugged and spackled to a semi-smooth finish. Final sanding, priming, painting and/or wallpapering are the responsibility of the homeowner. |
| Insulated bath exhaust hose | An uninsulated bathroom exhaust hose can lead to excessive moisture accumulation inside your home. Installing an insulated exhaust hose that connects to an existing roof-mounted flapper vent helps reduce this buildup, improving air quality and preventing potential moisture related issues. |
| Knee wall dense packing | Dense packing involves adding Class I Cellulose insulation into an enclosed knee wall cavity by drilling holes in the drywall or exterior surface material and blowing in insulation to achieve the specified R-Value. After the insulation is installed, the holes are plugged. Any final sanding, priming, painting or wallpapering is the responsibility of the homeowner. |
| Knee wall fiberglass | Fiberglass batt insulation is a pre-cut insulation material made of glass fibers and a binder. It's commonly used in homes and businesses to insulate knee walls, as well as walls, attics and floors. |
| Knee wall floor cellulose |
Cellulose insulation is a fiber insulation made from recycled paper and is commonly used in walls, attics and other spaces to help prevent heat transfer. |
| Knee wall floor dense packing | Dense packing involves adding Class I Cellulose insulation beneath a floored knee wall by drilling holes in the floor and blowing in insulation to achieve the specified R-Value. Once the insulation is in place, the drilled holes are sealed with wood plugs to complete the process. |
| Knee wall floor fiberglass |
Fiberglass batt insulation is a pre-cut material made of glass fibers and a binder, commonly used to insulate walls, attics and floors. For knee wall floors, batts are laid perpendicular to the cavity to achieve greater insulation depth, improving energy efficiency and reducing heat loss. |
| Knob and tube wiring | Knob and tube wiring is an outdated electrical system that uses porcelain knobs and tubes to secure and protect copper wires. This method was commonly used in homes built between the 1880s and the 1940s. Over time, this wiring can become a safety hazard as it deteriorates, potentially causing electrical fires, shock risks and poor grounding. |
| Lead paint | Lead paint contains lead, a toxic metal that can cause serious health issues, particularly in young children and pregnant women. It was commonly used in homes built before 1978, when federal regulations prohibited its use due to the health risks it poses. Disturbing lead paint can release harmful dust or chips, increasing exposure risks. |
| Overhang cellulose | Overhang cellulose insulation involves adding Class I Cellulose to an exterior overhang by drilling holes in the ceiling from below or from the side wall, then blowing in the insulation. After the insulation is in place, the holes are plugged and sealed with exterior-grade spackle to create a semi-smooth finish. |
| Overhang fiberglass batting | Fiberglass batt insulation is a pre-cut insulation material made from glass fibers and a binder. It's commonly used in to insulate walls, attics ceilings and floors. For overhangs, faced fiberglass insulation is installed into the overhang cavity with the facing directed towards the heated living space. The insulation is then fastened in place using spring wires so the insulation contacts the floor above. |
| 6 mil poly ground cover | A 6 mil (or greater) polyethylene plastic cover is installed over open ground in crawlspaces and/or earthen basement areas to act as a barrier against moisture infiltration. This helps reduce humidity levels and keeps insulation dry, maintaining its effectiveness and preventing mold or mildew growth. |
| Pipe tenting | Water lines installed outside the thermal boundary of your home are exposed to cold winter air, increasing the risk of freezing. To protect them, insulation underneath should be removed, and a tent-like layer of insulation should be added on top to shield the pipes from direct exposure to cold air. While this will help protect the pipes, it will not eliminate the risk of freezing. For long-term protection, consider hiring a plumber to relocate the pipes inside the thermal boundary of your home. |
| Pull-down attic stair cover - Therma-Dome | The Therma-Dome Pull-Down Attic Stair Cover air seals and insulates the attic access opening, helping to prevent heat loss in winter and reduce cooling costs in summer. |
| Pull-down attic stair - thermal tent | A pull-down stair tent, also known as an attic stair cover or attic insulation cover, seals the opening of an attic ladder. It helps to prevent drafts, regulate temperature, and save energy. |
| Recessed light covers | Recessed light fixtures can contribute to energy loss by allowing air to leak into the attic. Installing specialized covers on the attic side of these light fixtures helps reduce air leakage. |
| Ridge vent | A ridge vent is a continuous ventilation system installed along the peak of a roof, known as the ridge. It is designed to allow warm, humid air to escape from an attic space, helping to maintain proper airflow and temperature regulation. |
| Roof vent | A roof vent is a small opening installed on a roof that allows air to circulate through the attic space. It helps prevent moisture buildup and regulates temperature by letting hot air escape and fresh air enter. Roof vents come in different sizes depending on ventilation needs of the home. |
| Sheathing access | To properly weatherize your home, access openings are created by cutting a passage through the sheathing between two attic areas. This opening is left unsealed as it connects two common, unheated, non-firewalled attic spaces, allowing for proper airflow and insulation adjustments. |
| Slope dense pack cellulose | Dense packing involves adding Class I Cellulose into an enclosed slope cavity, providing enhanced insulation. The knee wall slope must be finished with a rigid material, such as drywall, wood sheathing, or 2" foam board, to support the dense packing of the cellulose. These slopes may be located in the living space or within knee walls, ensuring effective insulation throughout the area. |
| Slope fiberglass | Fiberglass batt insulation is a pre-cut insulation material made from glass fibers and a binder. It's commonly used to insulate walls, attics and floors. In sloped areas, faced fiberglass insulation is installed into the ceiling cavity with the facing directed towards the heated living space and fastened in place. |
| Soffit vent | A soffit vent is a small opening installed along the underside of a roof's eaves, designed to allow fresh air to flow into the attic. This helps maintain proper ventilation, preventing moisture buildup and heat damage by promoting air circulation within the attic space. |
| Temporary access | To properly weatherize an area of your home, a temporary access will be needed. This can be made through interior drywall or an existing roof. Once the work is complete, the access will be closed up with the same or similar materials as existing. For drywall access, cut lines are taped and compounded to a rough finish. Final sanding and painting are not included. |
| Thermal barrier polyiso | Thermal barrier polyiso insulation is a rigid foam board made from polyisocyanurate foam, also known as polyiso. It reduces thermal bridging and enhances energy efficiency by providing a strong barrier against heat transfer. This insulation is ideal for use on knee walls, attic walls, slopes and hatches to improve comfort and reduce energy costs. |
| Turbine roof vent | A turbine roof vent is a roof-mounted device that uses wind power to ventilate attics and other spaces. As the wind turns the turbine, it creates airflow, helping to release hot air and moisture from the attic, improving ventilation and reducing the risk of heat buildup or moisture damage. |
| Vent bath fan to roof or other | Improperly vented bathroom exhaust fans can allow moisture to accumulate, potentially causing mold, mildew or damage to your attic and roof. Installing a vent that directs the moisture outside the home helps control humidity and prevents these issues. |
| Ventilation chutes or Propa vents | Ventilation chutes, or Propa vents, are installed in attics to ensure proper airflow between the soffit intake vents and the roof exhaust vents. These vents help maintain a clear air path, allowing air to circulate freely and preventing insulation from blocking ventilation, which is important for temperature regulation and moisture control. |
| Vermiculite | Vermiculite attic insulation is a pebble-like, pour-in material that is usually light-brown, gray or gold in color. It may contain shiny flakes and/or small accordion-like pieces. This insulation has been known to contain asbestos, which poses a health hazard if disturbed. It should be removed by a professional. |
| Weatherstripping | Weatherstripping seals gaps around doors and windows, reducing air leaks and preventing drafts or cold spots. |
| Whole house fan cover | A whole house fan cover helps prevent drafts, dust and moisture from entering your home when the fan is not in use. This reduces heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer while also helping to maintain a consistent indoor temperature. |